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Glossary

Glossary

Alkaline – a measure of pH higher than 7.0.  

Allergy – a hypersensitivity to certain foods, cosmetics, tints, or any other substance due to personal idiosyncrasy.  The reaction is seldom visible on colour application, but may appear 6 to 24 hours later.   

Acid – a measure of pH that is lower than 7.0. 

Amino acids – compound molecules that link to create polypeptides and are commonly referred to as the “building blocks” of protein.  

Ammonia – a liquid, colourless gas.  When mixed with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) creates the oxidation process of melanin and allows the melanin to decolourize. Raises the hair cuticle. 

Ash – Blue, green and blue/green tones.  Used to neutralize orange, red and red/orange. 

Bleach – an alkaline product, which lightens the hair by removing natural and artificial pigment.  

Blonde on Blonde – two blonde colours used to achieve a blending of light and darker blonde. 

Breakage – a condition in which hair splits and breaks off.  Caused by over bleaching, improper permanent waving, chemical straightening, thermal products or styling tools.  

Caramelizing – highlighting the hair to a translucent caramel colour. An excellent technique for dark brown to brown hair. 

Colour Balancing – using a demi-permanent colour from the line of demarcation through the ends to match the permanent colour chosen for the roots.  Also used to change the shade of bleach highlights to get rid of unwanted warmth or create the perfect warm tone.  

Cleansing Conditioner – a pH of 4.0 designed to maintain a healthy state of the cuticle layer to protect the hair.  

Colour Shaping – using colour to enhance the shape of a haircut.  Usually lighter on top and darker underneath.   

Cool – colours that contain the qualities of bodies of water. Blue, Green and Violet are cool.   

Corrective Base – a colour that is an opposite on the colour wheel.  The two together neutralize each other, making a natural tone neither warm nor cool.  

Corrective Colour – correcting an undesirable colour(s).  

Decolourization – the removal of colour from hair.  

Density – measure of thickness of hair.  

Demi-permanent – colour that does not lighten the hair but deposits colour slightly under the cuticle lasting four to six weeks before fading off.  

Deposit – the action of placing colour into the hair.  

Desired Level – the level chosen for the end result.  

Developer –an oxidizing agent, H2O2, that provides the necessary oxygen to activate the ammonia for the oxidation of colour molecules.  

Direct Dye – large pre-oxidized pigment used to stain the hair.  

Drab – dull hair colour without any warmth or shine.  

Dual Purpose – a bleaching product designed for on- or off-scalp bleaching.  

Enzyme – a protein catalyst produced within a living organism to speed up specific chemical reactions.  

Filling – replacing colour absent from the hair when colouring the hair darker (yellow, orange and red tones).  

FlexPower Mixing Technology – the ability to change the translucency and opacity of a colour formula by changing the mixing ratio of the colour formula from 1:1 through 2:1.  

Hair Shaft – the visible part of each strand of hair. It is made up of an outer layer called the cuticle, an innermost layer called the medulla and an in-between layer called the cortex.  The cortex layer is where colour is found and changed.  

High-lighting – lifting small sections of the hair to various stages creating a dimensional effect.  

Hydrogen Peroxide – H2O2, an oxidizing agent used to keep the ammonia active until the active oxygen releases into the hair leaving only H2O (water).  

Keratin – a tough, water-soluble protein found in the epidermis of the nails and hair.  

Level – the measurement used for the lightness or darkness of hair.  Level 1 being the darkest, and level 10 the lightest.   

Lift – lightening the hair through the various levels.  

Low-lighting – adding darker strands to the hair, creating depth.   

Line of Demarcation – where natural hair stops and coloured or bleached hair starts on the hair shaft.  

Lighten – the action of removing colour or tone from the hair using a bleaching agent or colour. 

MaxBlondes – the high-lift blonde series with a pigment weight of a level 10.  

MaxBond Technology – made up of five key ingredients designed to rebuild the hair structure during the colouring process, create shine and increase durability of the colour.  

MaxBoost – a colourless ammonia additive designed to add up to an extra level of lift.  

MaxLift Cream – a gentle bleach designed to keep the integrity and shine of the hair while slowly lifting up to 6 levels.  

MaxLift Powder – an aggressive, dual purpose, dust-free powder bleach.  MaxLift has the ability to lift up to eight levels.  

MaxPro Protein Spray – a protein spray with a pH of 7 designed to even the porosity of the hair prior to chemical services.  

MaxSparkle – a two-part treatment system that creates a mousse designed to reconstruct the hair from the inside out.  Maintains a pH of 6 when mixed together.  

Melanin – dark brown or black pigment granules found in the hair cortex that create natural hair colour.  

Metallic Colour – permanent colour, which contains metal salts. Not recommended.  

Natural Colour/Level – the colour of the hair as provided naturally, without chemical additives or the action of environmental effect.  

Neutralize – to counter balance unwanted tones in the hair.  

New Growth – the portion of hair emerging from the scalp and up to the line of demarcation.  

Over-Lap – caused when the lightener or colour crosses the line of demarcation of previously coloured hair.   

Over- Process – to exceed the manufactures directions on processing time causing damage to the integrity of the hair.  

Opaque – colour that cannot be seen through giving more control of unwanted tones and better grey coverage.  

Oxidize – the action caused when mixing hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and ammonia is called oxidation.  

Oxidative-dye – a small intermediate that is colourless until mixed with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) when it then develops and deposits into the cortex combining with the dominate pigment to create the end result.  

pH – the measurement of potential hydrogen of a solution on a scale of 1-14 with 7 being neutral.  Any thing below 7 is acid and anything above 7 is alkaline.  

pH↓ Regulating Activator – our exclusive ELI Colour developer designed to turn every tube of ELI Colour into semi- and demi-permanent hair colour, depending on processing time. 

Pigmentation – the deposit of pigment in the hair.  

Porosity – the ability of the hair to absorb liquid.  

Pre-lighten – the removal of the natural or artificial colour in the hair prior to the application of another.  

Pre-Softening – the application of a mild alkaline solution for a short period of time in order to make hair less resistant to colour.  

Processing Time – the amount of time it takes to deposit colour and form a polypeptide chain in the cortex of the hair.  Most important process of hair colouring.    

Reconditioning – the process of improving the condition of the hair with moisture and protein.  

Reconditioning – the deposit of colour missing from the hair due to lightening.  

Resistant – nonporous hair with a tightly packed cuticle layer that is difficult for solutions to penetrate.  

Retouch – the process of colouring or lightening only the new growth.  

Remaining Pigment Contribution (RPC) – the remaining pigment left in the hair at the level you are lifting to.  

Semi-permanent – colour that does not lighten the hair but deposits colour slightly under the cuticle lasting three to four weeks before fading off.  

Shade – a term used to describe tonal value of colour.  

Strand test – a test given before colour treatment to ascertain development time, colour results and the ability of the hair and scalp to withstand hair colour chemicals.  

Streaking – a technique used to lighten larger strands of hair, usually to a high contrast.  

Target Level – when the desired level is achieved the finished level is the target level.  

Texture – refers to the thickness of the hair strand.  

Tipping – when the very ends of the hair strands are lightened.  

Tone – the visible warmth or coolness of colour.  

Toner – shades designed to soften pre-lightened hair to more natural looking tones.  

Virgin Hair – hair not previously treated with chemical services, tints, lighteners, or permanent colour.  

Volume – a measurement of the degree of active oxygen gas within a hydrogen peroxide solution.  

Warm – colours that contain the qualities of heat. Red, yellow and orange are warm.   

Weaving – used to describe the action of the rat-tail comb when selecting strands of hair to be lightened.     

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